document_title: History of the potato

question_text: when were potatoes first eaten in north america

text: History of the potato

text: History by region[edit]

text: South America[edit]

text: Cultivation of potatoes in South America may go back 10,000 years,[3] yet the tubers do not preserve well in archaeological record, and there are problems with exact identification of those that are found.

text: The earliest archaeologically verified potato tuber remains have been found at the coastal site of Ancón (central Peru), dating to 2500 BC.[4] Potatoes dating to about 2000 BC have been found at Huaynuma, in the Casma Valley of Peru,[5] and early potatoes dating to 800-500 BC were also uncovered at the Altiplano site of Chiripa on the east side of Lake Titicaca.[6][7]

text: In the Altiplano, potatoes provided the principal energy source for the Inca Empire, its predecessors, and its Spanish successor. Andean Indians prepared their potatoes in a variety of ways, such as mashed, baked boiled, and stewed in ways similar to modern day Europeans. The Andean Indians also prepared a dish called papas secas, which was a process that involved boiling, peeling, and chopping. These potatoes were then fermented in order to create toqosh: and ground to a pulp, soaked, and filtered into a starch referred to as almidón de papa. However, the cash crop of the Andean people was chuño: created by letting potatoes freeze overnight, then allowing them to thaw in the morning. Doing this repeatedly allowed for a softening of the potatoes. Farmers then extract the water from the potato, leaving it much lighter and smaller. This new creation was then prepared into a stew, and usually was an addition to a stew. The benefits of chuño are plentiful. Its primary benefit is that it can be stored for years without refrigeration, which came into use especially during years of famine or bad harvests. Secondly, this long shelf life allowed it to be the staple food for the Inca Armies, due to how well it traveled and maintained its flavor and longevity. The Spanish fed chuño to the silver miners who produced vast wealth in the 16th century for the Spanish government.[2]

text: Potato was the staple food of most Pre‑Columbian Mapuches, "specially in the southern and coastal [Mapuche] territories where maize did not reach maturity".[8]

text: Europe[edit]

text: Sailors returning from the Andes to Spain with silver presumably brought maize and potatoes for their own food on the trip.[9] Historians speculate that leftover tubers (and maize) were carried ashore and planted: "We think that the potato arrived some years before the end of the 16th century, by two different ports of entry: the first, logically, in Spain around 1570, and the second via the British Isles between 1588 and 1593 ... we find traces of the transport of potatoes travelling from the Canaries to Antwerp in 1567 ... we can say that the potato was introduced there [the Canary islands] from South America around 1562 ... the first written mention of the potato [is] ... a receipt for delivery dated 28 November 1567 between Las Palmas in the Grand Canaries and Antwerp."[10]

text: Europeans in South America were aware of the potato by the mid-16th century, but refused to eat the plant.[11] In 1553, in the book Crónica del Peru, Pedro Cieza de León mentions he saw it in Quito, Popayán and Pasto in 1538. Basque fishermen from Spain used potatoes as ships' stores for their voyages across the Atlantic in the 16th century, and introduced the tuber to western Ireland, where they landed to dry their cod. The English privateer Sir Francis Drake, returning from his circumnavigation, or Sir Walter Raleigh's employee Thomas Harriot[12] are commonly credited with introducing potatoes into England. In 1588, botanist Carolus Clusius made a painting of what he called "Papas Peruanorum" from a specimen in the Low Countries; in 1601 he reported that potatoes were in common use in northern Italy for animal fodder and for human consumption.[13]

text: The potato first spread in Europe for non-food purposes. It was first eaten on the continent at a Seville hospital in 1573. After Philip II received potatoes from Peru, he sent harvested tubers to the pope, who sent them to the papal ambassador to the Netherlands because he was ill. Clusius indirectly received his tubers from the ambassador; he planted them in Vienna, Frankfurt, and Leyden, and is the person who widely introduced the plant to Europe. It was grown for flowers by Rudolph Jakob Camerarius (1588) and others; John Gerard added the first printed picture of the potato to Herball (1597), although he thought that the plant was native to Virginia.[11]

text: The Spanish had an empire across Europe, and brought potatoes for their armies. Peasants along the way adopted the crop, which was less often pillaged by marauding armies than above-ground stores of grain. Across most of Northern Europe, where open fields prevailed, potatoes were strictly confined to small garden plots because field agriculture was strictly governed by custom that prescribed seasonal rhythms for plowing, sowing, harvesting and grazing animals on fallow and stubble. This meant that potatoes were barred from large-scale cultivation because the rules allowed only grain to be planted in the open fields.[14] People feared that it was poisonous like other plants the potato was often grown with in herb gardens, and distrusted a plant, nicknamed "the devil's apples", that grew underground.[11] In France and Germany government officials and noble landowners promoted the rapid conversion of fallow land into potato fields after 1750. The potato thus became an important staple crop in northern Europe. Famines in the early 1770s contributed to its acceptance, as did government policies in several European countries and climate change during the Little Ice Age, when traditional crops in this region did not produce as reliably as before.[11][15][16] At times and places when and where most other crops failed, potatoes could still typically be relied upon to contribute adequately to food supplies during colder years.[17]

text: In France, at the end of the 16th century, the potato had been introduced to the Franche-Comté, the Vosges of Lorraine and Alsace. By the end of the 18th century it was written in the 1785 edition of Bon Jardinier: "There is no vegetable about which so much has been written and so much enthusiasm has been shown ... The poor should be quite content with this foodstuff."[18] It had widely replaced the turnip and rutabaga by the 19th century.[19]

text: French physician Antoine Parmentier studied the potato intensely and in Examen chymique des pommes de terres ("Chemical examination of potatoes") (Paris, 1774) showed their enormous nutritional value. King Louis XVI and his court eagerly promoted the new crop, with Queen Marie Antoinette even wearing a headdress of potato flowers at a fancy dress ball. The annual potato crop of France soared to 21 million hectoliters in 1815 and 117 million in 1840, allowing a concomitant growth in population while avoiding the Malthusian trap. Although potatoes had become widely familiar in Russia by 1800, they were confined to garden plots until the grain failure in 1838–39 persuaded peasants and landlords in central and northern Russia to devote their fallow fields to raising potatoes. Potatoes yielded from two to four times more calories per acre than grain did, and eventually came to dominate the food supply in Eastern Europe. Boiled or baked potatoes were cheaper than rye bread, just as nutritious, and did not require a gristmill for grinding. On the other hand, cash-oriented landlords realised that grain was much easier to ship, store and sell, so both grain and potatoes coexisted.[20]

text: In the German lands, Frederick the Great, king of Prussia, strove successfully to overcome farmers' skepticism about the potato, and in 1756 he issued an official proclamation mandating its cultivation. This Kartoffelbefehl (potato order) termed the unfamiliar tuber "a very nutritious food supplement." Frederick was sometimes known as the Kartoffelkönig ("potato king").

text: Throughout Europe, the most important new food in the 19th century was the potato, which had three major advantages over other foods for the consumer: its lower rate of spoilage, its bulk (which easily satisfied hunger) and its cheapness. The crop slowly spread across Europe, such that, for example, by 1845 it occupied one-third of Irish arable land.[citation needed] Potatoes comprised about 10% of the caloric intake of Europeans.[citation needed] Along with several other foods that either originated in the Americas or were successfully grown or harvested there, potatoes sustained European populations.[21]

text: In Britain, the potato promoted economic development by underpinning the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century. It served as a cheap source of calories and nutrients that was easy for urban workers to cultivate on small backyard plots. Potatoes became popular in the north of England, where coal was readily available, so a potato-driven population boom provided ample workers for the new factories. Marxist Friedrich Engels even declared that the potato was the equal of iron for its "historically revolutionary role".[13] The Dutch potato-starch industry grew rapidly in the 19th century, especially under the leadership of entrepreneur Willem Albert Scholten (1819–92).[22]

text: In Ireland, the expansion of potato cultivation was due entirely to the landless labourers, renting tiny plots from landowners who were interested only in raising cattle or in producing grain for market. A single acre of potatoes and the milk of a single cow was enough to feed a whole Irish family a monotonous but nutritionally adequate diet for a healthy, vigorous (and desperately poor) rural population. Often even poor families grew enough extra potatoes to feed a pig that they could sell for cash.[23]

text: A lack of genetic diversity from the low number of varieties left the crop vulnerable to disease. In the early 1800s, a strain of potato blight (Phytophthora infestans) known as HERB-1 began to spread in the Americas, especially Central and North America destroying many crops. The blight spread to Europe in the 1840s where, because of an extreme lack of genetic diversity, the potato crops were even more susceptible. In Northern Europe there were major crop losses lasting throughout the rest of the 19th century. Ireland in particular, because of the extreme dependence of the poor, especially western Ireland, on this single staple crop, was devastated by the blight's arrival in 1845.[24][25]

text: The Lumper potato, widely cultivated in western and southern Ireland before and during the Great Famine, was bland, wet and poorly resistant to the potato blight, but yielded large crops and usually provided adequate calories for peasants and labourers. Heavy dependence on this potato led to disaster when the blight quickly turned harvest-ready and newly harvested potatoes into a putrid mush. The Irish Famine in the western and southern parts of Ireland between 1845 and 1849 was a catastrophic failure in the food supply that led to approximately a million deaths from famine and (especially) diseases that attacked weakened bodies, and to massive emigration to Britain, the U.S., Canada and elsewhere.[26] During the famine years roughly one million Irish emigrated; this tide was not turned until the 20th century, when Ireland's population stood at less than half of the pre-famine level of 8 million.

text: Africa[edit]

text: It is generally believed that potatoes entered Africa with colonists, who consumed them as a vegetable rather than as a staple starch.[27] Shipping records from 1567 show that the first place outside of Central and South America where potatoes were grown were the Canary Islands.[28] As in other continents, despite its advantages as an anti-famine, high-elevation alternative to grain, potatoes were first resisted by local farmers who believed they were poisonous. As colonialists promoted them as a low-cost food, they were also a symbol of domination. In former European colonies of Africa, potatoes were initially consumed only occasionally, but increased production made them a staple in certain areas. Potatoes tended to become more popular in wartime due to their being able to be stored in the ground. It was well established as a crop by the mid-20th century [16] and in present-day Africa they have become a vegetable or co-staple crop.[27]

text: In higher regions of Rwanda, potatoes have become a new staple food crop. Prior to the 1994 Rwandan genocide, consumption was as high as 153 to 200 kg per year – higher than in any Western European country. Recently farmers have developed the potato as a cash crop after introducing several new varieties brought back by migrant laborers from Uganda and other varieties from Kenya.[27]

text: Asia[edit]

text: The potato diffused widely after 1600, becoming a major food resource in Europe and East Asia. Following its introduction into China toward the end of the Ming dynasty, the potato immediately became a delicacy of the imperial family. After the middle period of the Qianlong era (1735–96) in the Qing dynasty, population increases and a subsequent need to increase grain yields coupled with greater peasant geographic mobility led to the rapid spread of potato cultivation throughout China, and it was acclimated to local natural conditions.

text: Boomgaard (2003) looks at the adoption of various root and tuber crops in Indonesia throughout the colonial period and examines the chronology and reasons for progressive adoption of foreign crops: sweet potato, Irish potato, bengkuang (yam beans), and cassava.

text: Edward Terry mentioned the potato in his travel accounts of the banquet at Ajmer by Asaph Khan to Sir Thomas Roe, the British Ambassador in 1675. It is the earliest mention in history of India[clarification needed]. The vegetables gardens of Surat and Karnataka had potatoes as mentioned in Fyer's travel record of 1675. The Portuguese introduced potatoes, which they called 'Batata', to India in the early seventeenth century when they cultivated it along the western coast. British traders introduced potatoes to Bengal as a root crop, 'Alu'. By the end of the 18th century, it was cultivated across northern hill areas of India.[16] Potatoes were introduced to Tibet by the 19th century through the trade route from India.[29]

text: The potato was introduced to the Philippines during the late 16th century, and to Java and China during the 17th century.[citation needed]

text: North America[edit]

text: Early colonists in Virginia and the Carolinas may have grown potatoes from seeds or tubers from Spanish ships, but the earliest certain potato crop in North America was in Londonderry, New Hampshire in 1719. The plants were from Ireland, so the crop became known as the "Irish potato".[11] Potatoes were planted in Idaho as early as 1838; by 1900 the state's production exceeded a million bushels (about 27,000 tonnes[31]). Before 1910, the crops were stored in barns or root cellars, but, by the 1920s, potato cellars or barns came into use. U.S. potato production has increased steadily; two-thirds of the crop comes from Idaho, Washington, Oregon, Colorado, and Maine, and potato growers have strengthened their position in both domestic and foreign markets.

text: By the 1960s, the Canadian Potato Research Centre in Fredericton, New Brunswick, was one of the top six potato research institutes in the world. Established in 1912 as a Dominion Experimental Station, the station began in the 1930s to concentrate on breeding new varieties of disease-resistant potatoes. In the 1950s–1960s, the growth of the French fry industry in New Brunswick led to a focus on developing varieties for the industry. By the 1970s, the station's potato research was broader than ever before, but the station and its research programs had changed, as emphasis was placed on serving industry rather than potato farmers in general. Scientists at the station even began describing their work using engineering language rather than scientific prose.[32] Potatoes are Canada's most important vegetable crop; they are grown commercially in all its provinces, led by Prince Edward Island.[33] In modern times potatoes have grown in popularity due to their versatility and ability to be used for many different dishes of food.


document_title: Strictly Come Dancing (series 1)

question_text: who won the first ever strictly come dancing

root

text: Strictly Come Dancing (series 1)

text: Couples[edit]

text: In the first series, there were eight celebrity contestants and in order of elimination, they were:

tag: p

text:
Celebrity
Known for
Professional partner
Status

Jason Wood
Comedian & musical impersonator
Kylie Jones
Eliminated 1st
on 22 May 2004

David Dickinson
Television presenter
Camilla Dallerup
Eliminated 2nd
on 29 May 2004

Verona Joseph
Holby City actress
Paul Killick
Eliminated 3rd
on 5 June 2004

Claire Sweeney
Actress, singer & television presenter
John Byrnes
Eliminated 4th
on 12 June 2004

Martin Offiah
Former rugby league and union player
Erin Boag
Eliminated 5th
on 19 June 2004

Lesley Garrett
Classical crossover singer
Anton du Beke

Third Place
on 26 June 2004

Christopher Parker
EastEnders actor & television presenter
Hanna Karttunen

Second Place
on 3 July 2004

Natasha Kaplinsky
Television presenter
Brendan Cole

Winners
on 3 July 2004

tag: table

text: Scoring chart[edit]

text:
Couple
Place
1
2
1+2
3
4
5
6
7
8

Natasha & Brendan

1
27
31
58
26
35
37
31+36=67
36+35=71
36+31+35=102

Christopher & Hanna

2
19
23
42
19
28
15
22+15=37
21+16=37
24+17+22=63

Lesley & Anton

3
29
27
56
29
30
27
34+26=60
33+29=62

Martin & Erin

4
25
21
46
21
24
22
24+24=48

Claire & John

5
27
26
53
34
31
32

Verona & Paul

6
27
24
51
24
24

David & Camilla

7
16
21
37
20

Jason & Kylie

8
21
19
40

text: Average chart[edit]

text: This table only counts for dances scored on a traditional 40-points scale.

text:
Rank by
average
Place
Couple
Total
Number of
dances
Average

1
1
Natasha & Brendan
396
12
33.0

2
5
Claire & John
150
5
30.0

3
3
Lesley & Anton
264
9
29.3

4
6
Verona & Paul
99
4
24.8

5
4
Martin & Erin
161
7
23.0

6
2
Christopher & Hanna
241
12
20.1

7
8
Jason & Kylie
40
2
20.0

8
7
David & Camilla
57
3
19.0

text: Highest and lowest scoring performances of the series[edit]

text: The best and worst performances in each dance according to the judges' scores are as follows:

text:
Dance
Best dancer(s)
Best score
Worst dancer(s)
Worst score

Cha-Cha-Cha
Natasha Kaplinsky
Verona Joseph
27
David Dickinson
16

Foxtrot
Natasha Kaplinsky
35
Martin Offiah
24

Jive
Lesley Garrett
29
Christopher Parker
17

Paso Doble
Natasha Kaplinsky
35
Christopher Parker
15

Quickstep
Natasha Kaplinsky
36
David Dickinson
21

Rumba
Natasha Kaplinsky
36
Christopher Parker
16

Samba
Natasha Kaplinsky
37
Christopher Parker
15

Showdance
Natasha Kaplinsky
35
Christopher Parker
22

Tango
Claire Sweeney
34
David Dickinson
20

Waltz
Natasha Kaplinsky
36
Jason Wood
21

text: Couples' highest and lowest scoring dances[edit]

text:
Couple
Highest scoring dance
Lowest scoring dance

Natasha & Brendan
Samba (37)
Jive (26)

Chris & Hanna
Foxtrot (28)
Samba
Paso Doble (15)

Lesley & Anton
Foxtrot (34)
Cha-Cha-Cha (26)

Martin & Erin
Waltz (25)
Rumba
Jive (21)

Claire & John
Tango (34)
Rumba (26)

Verona & Paul
Cha Cha Cha (27)
Quickstep
Jive
Paso Doble (24)

David & Camilla
Quickstep (21)
Cha-Cha-Cha (16)

Jason & Kylie
Waltz (21)
Rumba (19)

text: Weekly scores and songs[edit]

text: Unless indicated otherwise, individual judges scores are given (in parenthesis) in this order from left to right: Craig Revel Horwood, Arlene Phillips, Len Goodman, Bruno Tonioli.

text: Week 1[edit]

text: Individual judges' scores in the chart below (given in parentheses) are listed in this order from left to right: Bruno Tonioli, Arlene Phillips, Len Goodman, Craig Revel Horwood

text: Running order

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music

Natasha & Brendan
27 (7,7,8,5)
Cha-Cha-Cha
"Chain of Fools"—Aretha Franklin

Lesley & Anton
29 (7,8,8,6)
Waltz
"He Was Beautiful"—Cleo Laine

Christopher & Hanna
19 (4,4,7,4)
Cha-Cha-Cha
"Lady Marmalade"—Labelle

Jason & Kylie
21 (5,5,6,5)
Waltz
"Three Times A Lady"—Commodores

Verona & Paul
27 (7,6,7,7)
Cha-Cha-Cha
"Respect"—Aretha Franklin

Claire & John
27 (5,7,8,7)
Waltz
"Unchained Melody"—The Righteous Brothers from Ghost

David & Camilla
16 (4,4,6,2)
Cha-Cha-Cha
"Sex Bomb"—Tom Jones

Martin & Erin
25 (7,6,7,5)
Waltz
"Come Away With Me"—Norah Jones

text: Week 2[edit]

text: Running order

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Natasha & Brendan
31 (7,8,8,8)
Quickstep
"The Lady is a Tramp"—Frank Sinatra
Safe

Martin & Erin
21 (3,5,7,6)
Rumba
"Hero"—Mariah Carey
Safe

Christopher & Hanna
23 (5,6,6,6)
Quickstep
"You're the One That I Want" from Grease
Safe

Claire & John
26 (6,6,7,7)
Rumba
"Angels"—Robbie Williams
Safe

Verona & Paul
24 (6,6,6,6)
Quickstep
"If My Friends Could See Me Now" from Sweet Charity
Safe

Jason & Kylie
19 (2,5,7,5)
Rumba
"Leave Right Now"—Will Young
Eliminated

David & Camilla
21 (3,6,6,6)
Quickstep
"Let's Face The Music and Dance" from Follow the Fleet
Bottom two

Lesley & Anton
27 (6,7,7,7)
Rumba
"You'll Never Find Another Love Like Mine"—Lou Rawls
Safe

text: Week 3[edit]

text: This week's show is filmed in the Blackpool Tower Ballroom.

text: Running order

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Verona & Paul
24 (6,6,6,6)
Jive
"Proud Mary"—Tina Turner
Safe

Lesley & Anton
29 (7,8,7,7)
Tango
"Sensation"—The Who
Safe

Martin & Erin
21 (5,5,5,6)
Jive
"Great Balls of Fire"—Jerry Lee Lewis
Safe

David & Camilla
20 (4,6,5,5)
Tango
"La Cumparsita"—Gerardo Matos Rodríguez
Eliminated

Christopher & Hanna
19 (5,4,5,5)
Jive
"Do You Love Me"—The Contours
Safe

Claire & John
34 (8,9,9,8)
Tango
"Roxanne"—The Police
Safe

Natasha & Brendan
26 (7,7,5,7)
Jive
"Jump, Jive and Wail”—Louis Prima
Bottom two

text: Week 4[edit]

text: Running order

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Claire & John
31 (8,8,7,8)
Paso Doble
"España cañí"—Pascual Marquina Narro
Safe

Christopher & Hanna
28 (6,7,8,7)
Foxtrot
"Flying Without Wings"—Westlife
Safe

Verona & Paul
24 (5,6,6,7)
Paso Doble
"Boléro"—Maurice Ravel
Eliminated

Natasha & Brendan
35 (8,9,9,9)
Foxtrot
"The Girl from Ipanema"—Antônio Carlos Jobim
Safe

Lesley & Anton
30 (7,7,8,8)
Paso Doble
"La Cumparsita"—Gerardo Matos Rodríguez
Bottom two

Martin & Erin
24 (6,5,7,6)
Foxtrot
"Let There Be Love"—Nat King Cole
Safe

text: Week 5[edit]

text: Running order

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Lesley & Anton
27 (7,6,7,7)
Samba
"Mas que Nada"—Jorge Ben
Bottom two

Martin & Erin
22 (5,5,6,6)
Samba
"Crickets Sing for Anamaria"—Marcos Valle
Safe

Christopher & Hanna
15 (3,4,4,4)
Samba
"Soul Bossa Nova"—Quincy Jones
Safe

Claire & John
32 (8,8,8,8)
Samba
"Shake Your Bon-Bon"—Ricky Martin
Eliminated

Natasha & Brendan
37 (9,10,9,9)
Samba
"Love Is in the Air"—John Paul Young
Safe

text: Week 6: Quarter-final[edit]

text: Running order

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Martin & Erin
24 (5,6,6,7)
Quickstep
"It Don't Mean a Thing (If It Ain't Got That Swing)"—Duke Ellington
Eliminated

24 (6,6,6,6)
Cha Cha Cha
"Smooth"—Santana

Natasha & Brendan
31 (8,7,8,8)
Tango
"Libertango"—Ástor Piazzolla
Safe

36 (9,9,9,9)
Rumba
"Endless Love"—Lionel Richie

Christopher & Hanna
22 (5,6,5,6)
Waltz
"I Have Nothing"—Whitney Houston
Safe

15 (3,4,5,3)
Paso Doble
"Bamboleo"—Gipsy Kings

Lesley & Anton
34 (8,8,9,9)
Foxtrot
"I've Got You Under My Skin"—Frank Sinatra
Bottom two

26 (6,6,7,7)
Cha Cha Cha
"Spinning Around"—Kylie Minogue

text: Week 7: Semi-final[edit]

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Lesley & Anton
33 (8,8,8,9)
Quickstep
"That Old Black Magic"—Sammy Davis Jr
Third place

29 (7,7,8,7)
Jive
"My Baby Just Cares for Me"—Nina Simone

Natasha & Brendan
36 (9,9,9,9)
Waltz
"With You I'm Born Again"—Billy Preston and Syreeta Wright
Safe

35 (8,9,9,9)
Paso Doble
"O Fortuna"—Carl Orff

Christopher & Hanna
21 (2,6,7,6)
Tango
"Toxic"—Britney Spears
Bottom two

16 (2,4,5,5)
Rumba
"Careless Whisper"—George Michael

text: Week 8: Final[edit]

text:
Couple
Score
Dance
Music
Result

Natasha & Brendan
36 (9,9,9,9)
Quickstep
"The Lady is a Tramp"—Frank Sinatra
Winner

31 (7,7,9,8)
Samba
"Love Is in the Air"—John Paul Young

35 (8,9,9,9)
Showdance
"(I've Had) The Time of My Life"—Bill Medley and Jennifer Warnes

Christopher & Hanna
24 (6,5,6,7)
Waltz
"I Have Nothing"—Whitney Houston
Runner-up

17 (3,3,7,4)
Jive
"Do You Love Me"—The Contours

22 (4,6,7,5)
Showdance
"Fame"—Irene Cara

text: Dance chart[edit]

text:
Couple
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

Natasha & Brendan
Cha-Cha-Cha
Quickstep
Jive
Foxtrot
Samba
Tango
Rumba
Waltz
Paso Doble
Quickstep
Samba
Showdance

Christopher & Hanna
Cha-Cha-Cha
Quickstep
Jive
Foxtrot
Samba
Waltz
Paso Doble
Tango
Rumba
Waltz
Jive
Showdance

Lesley & Anton
Waltz
Rumba
Tango
Paso Doble
Samba
Foxtrot
Cha-Cha-Cha
Quickstep
Jive

Martin & Erin
Waltz
Rumba
Jive
Foxtrot
Samba
Quickstep
Cha-Cha-Cha

Claire & John
Waltz
Rumba
Tango
Paso Doble
Samba

Verona & Paul
Cha-Cha-Cha
Quickstep
Jive
Paso Doble

David & Camilla
Cha-Cha-Cha
Quickstep
Tango

Jason & Kylie
Waltz
Rumba

text: The dances performed during Series 1 were as follows:

text:
Week 1: Cha Cha Cha or Waltz
Week 2: Quickstep or Rumba
Week 3: Tango or Jive
Week 4: Foxtrot or Paso Doble
Week 5: Samba
Week 6 & 7: Two unlearned dances
Week 8: Favourite ballroom, favourite Latin & Showdance

tag: ul


document_title: Eiger

question_text: first person to climb north face of eiger

text: Eiger

text: Etymology[edit]

text: The Eiger is mentioned in records dating back to the 13th century, but there is no clear indication of how exactly the peak gained its name. The three mountains of the ridge are commonly referred to as the Virgin (German: Jungfrau – translates to "virgin" or "maiden"), the Monk (Mönch), and the Ogre (Eiger; the standard German word for ogre is Oger).

text: The name has been linked to the Latin term acer, meaning "sharp" or "pointed".

text: Geographic setting and description[edit]

text: The Eiger is located above the Lauterbrunnen Valley to the west and Grindelwald to the north in the Bernese Highlands of the canton of Bern.[6]

text: It forms a very renown mountain range of the Bernese Alps together with its two indispensable companions: the Jungfrau (4,158 m (13,642 ft)) about 5.6 kilometres (3.5 mi) southwest of it and the "protecting" Mönch (4,107 m (13,474 ft)) about in the middle of them. The nearest settlements are Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen (795 m (2,608 ft)) and Wengen (1,274 m (4,180 ft)). The Eiger has three faces: north(west), (south)west and east. The northeastern ridge from the summit to the Ostegg (lit.: eastern corner, 2,709 m (8,888 ft)), called Mittellegi, is the longest on the Eiger. The north face overlooks the gently raising Alpine meadow between Grindelwald (943 m (3,094 ft)) and Kleine Scheidegg (2,061 m (6,762 ft)), a mountain railways junction and a pass, which can be reached from both sides, Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen/Wengen – by foot or train.[6]

text: Politically, the Eiger belongs to the municipality of Grindelwald. The Kleine Scheidegg (lit.: the small parting corner) connects the Männlichen-Tschuggen range with the western ridge of the Eiger.[6]

text: The Eiger does not properly form part of the main chain of the Bernese Alps, which borders the canton of Valais and forms the watershed between the Rhine and the Rhône, but constitutes a huge limestone buttress, projecting from the crystalline basement of the Mönch across the Eigerjoch. Consequently, all sides of the Eiger feed finally the same river, namely the Lütschine.[6]

text: On the one hand, Eiger's water is connected through the Weisse Lütschine (the white one) in the Lauterbrunnen Valley on the west side (southwestern face of the Eiger), and through the Schwarze Lütschine (the black one) running through Grindelwald (northwestern face), which meet each other in Zweilütschinen (lit.: the two Lütschinen) where they form the proper Lütschine.[6]

text: On the other hand, the east face is covered by the glacier called Ischmeer (Bernese German for Ice Sea) which forms one upper part of the fast retreating Lower Grindelwald Glacier. These glaciers' water forms a short creek, which is also confusingly called the Weisse Lütschine, but enters the black one already in Grindelwald together with the water from the Upper Grindelwald Glacier.[6]

text: Therefore, all the water running down the Eiger converges at the northern foot of the Männlichen (2,342 m (7,684 ft)) in Zweilütschinen (654 m (2,146 ft)), about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) northwest of the summit, where the Lütschine begins its northern course to Lake Brienz and the Aare (564 m (1,850 ft)).[6]

text: Although the north face of the Eiger is almost free of ice, significant glaciers lie at the other sides of the mountain. The Eiger Glacier flows on the southwestern side of the Eiger, from the crest connecting it to the Mönch down to 2,400 m (7,900 ft), south of Eigergletscher railway station, and feeds the Weisse Lütschine through the Trümmelbach. On the east side, the Ischmeer–well visible from the windows of Eismeer railway station–flows eastwards from the same crest then turns to the north below the impressive wide Fiescherwand, the north face of the Fiescherhörner triple summit (4,049 m (13,284 ft)) down to about 1,600 m (5,200 ft) of the Lower Grindelwald Glacier system.[6]

text: The massive composition of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau constitutes an emblematic sight of the Swiss Alps and is well visible from many places on the Swiss Plateau and the Jura Mountains in the northwest. The higher Finsteraarhorn (4,270 m (14,010 ft)) and Aletschhorn (4,190 m (13,750 ft)), which are located about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) to the south, are generally less visible and situated in the middle of glaciers in less accessible areas. As opposed to the north side, the south and east sides of the range consist of large valley glaciers extending for up to 22 kilometres (14 mi), the largest (beyond the Eiger drainage basin) being those of Grand Aletsch, Fiesch, and Aar Glaciers, and is thus uninhabited. The whole area, the Jungfrau-Aletsch protected area, comprising the highest summits and largest glaciers of the Bernese Alps, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.

text: In July 2006, a piece of the Eiger, amounting to approximately 700,000 cubic metres of rock, fell from the east face. As it had been noticeably cleaving for several weeks and fell into an uninhabited area, there were no injuries and no buildings were hit.[7]

text: North face [edit]

text: The Nordwand, German for "north wall" or "north face," is the north face of the Eiger (also known as the Eigernordwand: "Eiger north wall" or Eigerwand). It is one of the three great north faces of the Alps, along with the north faces of the Matterhorn and the Grandes Jorasses (known as 'the Trilogy'). It is about 1,800 m (5,900 ft) tall and overlooks Kleine Scheidegg and Grindelwald. At 2,866 metres inside the mountain lies the Eigerwand railway station. The station is connected to the north face by a tunnel opening at the face, which has sometimes been used to rescue climbers. The Eiger Trail, at the base of the north face, runs from Eigergletscher to Alpiglen railway stations.

text: It was first climbed on July 24, 1938 by Andreas Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek, a German–Austrian group. The group had originally consisted of two independent teams; Harrer and Kasparek were joined on the face by Heckmair and Vörg, who had started their ascent a day later and had been helped by the fixed rope that the lead group had left across the Hinterstoisser Traverse. The two groups, led by the experienced Heckmair, cooperated on the more difficult later pitches, and finished the climb roped together as a single group of four.

text: A portion of the upper face is called "The White Spider", as snow-filled cracks radiating from an ice-field resemble the legs of a spider. Harrer used this name for the title of his book about his successful climb, Die Weisse Spinne (translated into English as The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger). During the first successful ascent, the four men were caught in an avalanche as they climbed the Spider, but all had enough strength to resist being swept off the face.

text: Since then, the north face has been climbed many times. Today it is regarded as a formidable challenge more because of the increased rockfall and diminishing ice-fields than because of its technical difficulties, which are exceeded by the 8,000 m peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram. Climbers are increasingly electing to challenge the Eiger in winter, when the crumbling face is strengthened by ice.

text: Since 1935, at least sixty-four climbers have died attempting the north face, earning it the German nickname, Mordwand, or "murderous wall", a play on the face's German name Nordwand.[5]

text: Climbing history[edit]

text: While the summit was reached without much difficulty in 1858 by a complex route on the west flank, the battle to climb the north face has captivated the interest of climbers and non-climbers alike. Before it was successfully climbed, most of the attempts on the face ended tragically and the Bernese authorities even banned climbing it and threatened to fine any party that should attempt it again. But the enthusiasm which animated the young talented climbers from Austria and Germany finally vanquished its reputation of unclimbability when a party of four climbers successfully reached the summit in 1938 by what is known as the "1938" or "Heckmair" route.

text: The climbers that attempted the north face could be easily watched through the telescopes from the Kleine Scheidegg, a pass between Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, connected by rail. The contrast between the comfort and civilization of the railway station and the agonies of the young men slowly dying a short yet uncrossable distance away led to intensive coverage by the international media.

text: After World War II, the north face was climbed twice in 1947, first by a party of two French guides, Louis Lachenal and Lionel Terray, then by a Swiss party consisting of H. Germann, with Hans and Karl Schlunegger.[8]

text: First ascent[edit]

text: The first ascent was made by the western flank on August 11, 1858 by Charles Barrington with guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren. They started at 3:00 a.m. from Wengen. Barrington describes the route much as it is followed today, staying close to the edge of the north face much of the way. They reached the summit at about noon, stayed for some 10 minutes and descended in about four hours. Barrington describes the reaching of the top, saying, "the two guides kindly gave me the place of first man up." Their ascent was confirmed by observation of a flag left on the summit. According to Harrer's The White Spider, Barrington was originally planning to make the first ascent of the Matterhorn, but his finances did not allow him to travel there as he was already staying in the Eiger region.[9]

text: Attempts on the north face[edit]

text: In 1935 two young German climbers from Bavaria, Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer, arrived at Grindelwald to attempt to climb the face. They waited a long time for good weather and when the clouds finally cleared they started. The two climbers reached the height of the Eigerwand station and made their first bivouac. On the following day, because of the greater difficulties, they gained little height. On the third day they made hardly any vertical ground. That night a storm broke and the mountain was hidden in fog, and then it began to snow. Avalanches of snow began to sweep the face and the clouds closed over it. Two days later, there was a short moment when the clouds cleared and the mountain was visible for a while. The two men were glimpsed, now a little higher and about to bivouac for the fifth time. Then the fog came down again and hid the climbers. A few days later the weather finally cleared, revealing a completely white north face. The two climbers were found later frozen to death at 3,300 m, at a place now known as "Death Bivouac".[8][10]

text: The next year ten young climbers from Austria and Germany came to Grindelwald and camped at the foot of the mountain. Before their attempts started one of them was killed during a training climb, and the weather was so bad during that summer that, after waiting for a change and seeing none on the way, several members of the party gave up. Of the four that remained, two were Bavarians, Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz, and two were Austrians, Willy Angerer and Edi Rainer (sv). When the weather improved they made a preliminary exploration of the lowest part of the face. Hinterstoisser fell 37 metres (121 ft) but was not injured. A few days later the four men finally began the ascent of the face. They climbed quickly, but on the next day, after their first bivouac, the weather changed; clouds came down and hid the group to the observers. They did not resume the climb until the following day, when, during a break, the party was seen descending, but the climbers could be seen only intermittently from the ground. The group had no choice but to retreat, since Angerer had suffered serious injuries from falling rock. The party became stuck on the face when they could not recross the difficult Hinterstoisser Traverse, from which they had taken the rope they had first used to climb it. The weather then deteriorated for two days. They were ultimately swept away by an avalanche, which only Kurz survived, hanging on a rope. Three guides started on an extremely perilous rescue attempt. They failed to reach him but came within shouting distance and learned what had happened. Kurz explained the fate of his companions: one had fallen down the face, another was frozen above him, and the third had fractured his skull in falling and was hanging dead on the rope.[8]

text: In the morning the three guides came back, traversing the face from a hole near the Eigerwand station and risking their lives under incessant avalanches. Toni Kurz was still alive but almost helpless, with one hand and one arm completely frozen. Kurz hauled himself off the cliff after cutting loose the rope that bound him to his dead teammate below and climbed back onto the face. The guides were not able to pass an unclimbable overhang that separated them from Kurz. They managed to give him a rope long enough to reach them by tying two ropes together. While descending, Kurz could not get the knot to pass through his carabiner. He tried for hours to reach his rescuers who were only a few metres below him. Then he began to lose consciousness. One of the guides, climbing on another's shoulders, was able to touch the tip of Kurz's crampons with his ice-axe but could not reach higher. Kurz was unable to descend further and, completely exhausted, died slowly.[8]

text: An attempt was made in 1937 by Mathias Rebitsch (de) and Ludwig Vörg. Although the attempt was unsuccessful, they were nonetheless the first climbers who returned alive from a serious attempt on the face. They started the climb on 11 August and reached a high point of a few rope lengths above Death Bivouac. A storm then broke and after three days on the wall they had to retreat. This was the first successful withdrawal from a significant height on the wall.[11]

text: First ascent of the north face[edit]

text: The north face was first climbed on July 24, 1938 by Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek in a German–Austrian party. The party had originally consisted of two independent teams: Harrer (who did not have a pair of crampons on the climb) and Kasparek were joined on the face by Heckmair and Vörg, who had started their ascent a day later and had been helped by the fixed rope that the lead team had left across the Hinterstoisser Traverse. The two groups, led by the experienced Heckmair, decided to join their forces and roped together as a single group of four. Heckmair later wrote: "We, the sons of the older Reich, united with our companions from the Eastern Border to march together to victory."[8]

text: The expedition was constantly threatened by snow avalanches and climbed as quickly as possible between the falls. On the third day a storm broke and the cold was intense. The four men were caught in an avalanche as they climbed "the Spider," the snow-filled cracks radiating from an ice-field on the upper face, but all possessed sufficient strength to resist being swept off the face. The members successfully reached the summit at four o'clock in the afternoon. They were so exhausted that they only just had the strength to descend by the normal route through a raging blizzard.[8]

text: Other routes[edit]

text:
1857: First attempt by Christian Almer, Christian Kaufmann, Ulrich Kaufmann (fr) guiding the Viennese alpinist Sigismund Porges. They did manage the first ascent of neighboring Mönch, while Porges has the second ascend of the Eiger in July 1861 with the guides Christian Michel, Hans and Peter Baumann.[12]
1858: First ascent, by the west flank, 11 August (Christian Almer and Peter Bohren (de) guiding Charles Barrington). According to Harrer's "The White Spider," Barrington would have attempted the first Matterhorn ascent instead, but his finances did not allow him to travel there as he was already staying in the Eiger region.
1864 (Jul 27): Fourth ascent, and first ascent by a woman, Lucy Walker, who was part of a group of six guides (including Christian Almer and Melchior Anderegg) and five clients, including her brother Horace Walker[12]
1871: First ascent by the southwest ridge, 14 July (Christian Almer, Christian Bohren, and Ulrich Almer guiding W. A. B. Coolidge and Meta Brevoort).
1890: First ascent in winter, Ulrich Kaufmann (fr) and Christian Jossi guiding C. W. Mead and G. F. Woodroffe.
1921: 10 September: First ascent via the Mittellegi ridge by Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, Yuko Maki and Fritz Steuri.
1924: First ski ascent and descent via the Eiger glacier by Englishman Arnold Lunn and the Swiss Fritz Amacher, Walter Amstutz and Willy Richardet.
1932: First ascent of the northeast face ("Lauper route") by Hans Lauper, Alfred Zürcher, Alexander Graven and Josef Knubel[12]
1970: First ski descent over the west flank, by Sylvain Saudan.
1986: Welshman Eric Jones becomes the first person to BASE jump from the Eiger.
1991: First ascent, Metanoia Route, North Face, solo, winter, without bolts, Jeff Lowe.
1992: 18 July: Three BMG/UIAGM/IFMGA clients died in a fall down the West Flank: Willie Dunnachie; Douglas Gaines; and Phillip Davies. They had ascended the mountain via the Mittellegi Ridge.
2006: 14 June: François Bon and Antoine Montant make the first speedflying descent of the Eiger.[13][14]
2006: 15 July: Approximately 700,000 cubic metres (20 million cubic feet) of rock from the east side collapses. No injuries or damage were reported.[15]
2015: 23 July: A team of British Para-Climbers reached the summit via the West Flank Route. The team included John Churcher, the world's first blind climber to summit the Eiger, sight guided by the team leader Mark McGowan. Colin Gourlay enabled the ascent of other team members, including Al Taylor who has multiple sclerosis, and the young autistic climber Jamie Owen from North Wales. The ascent was filmed by the adventure filmmakers, Euan Ryan & Willis Morris of Finalcrux Films.

text: Climbs and attempts on the north face[edit]

text: 1930s and 1940s[edit]

text:
1934: First attempt on the face, by Willy Beck, Kurt Löwinger and Georg Löwinger, reaching 2,900 m.
1935: Attempt by the Germans Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer. They froze to death at 3,300 m, a place now known as "Death Bivouac."
1936: Four Austrian and German climbers, Andreas Hinterstoisser, Toni Kurz, Willy Angerer and Edi Rainer (sv), died on the face in severe weather conditions during a retreat from Death Bivouac.
1938: Alpine Journal editor Edward Lisle Strutt calls the face "an obsession for the mentally deranged" and "the most imbecile variant since mountaineering first began."[16]
1938: First ascent of the north face by Anderl Heckmair, Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vörg, achieved in three days.
1947 (July 14–16): Second ascent of the face by the Frenchmen Lionel Terray and Louis Lachenal.
1947 (August 4–5): Third ascent by the Swiss climbers Hans Schlunegger (de), Karl Schlunegger and Gottfried Jermann

text:
1950 (July 26): Fourth ascent in one very long day with a bivouac on the summit by Leo Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak. They overtake Swiss climbers Jean Fuchs, Marcel Hamel, Raymond Monney and Robert Seiler, who achieve the fifth ascent on 27 July.[17]
1957: Two Italian (Claudio Corti and Stefano Longhi) and two German climbers (Franz Meyer[18] and Gunther Nothdurft) encounter extreme difficulties in the higher part of the route, as Nothdurft becomes ill and Longhi, who is suffering from severe frostbite, falls near "the Spider" and cannot be lifted by his companions. Corti (who has been in turn hit by a falling stone) becomes the first man rescued from the face from above in a famous 54-man rescue action (first undertaken by volunteer climbers and non-Swiss guides) when German guide Alfred Hellepart is lowered from the summit on a steel cable by Ludwig Gramminger's rescue system. Longhi is not so lucky, and dies of exposure before he can be rescued.[19] Meyer and Nothdurft died in an avalanche on their descent of the Eiger's west face after completing the 14th ascent of the north face (they had left the injured Corti with all their provisions—including a small tent—and were trying to descend from the mountain and call rescue). The body of Longhi remained on the face for more than two years before being recovered.[20]

Claudio Corti, being the sole survivor, was quite wrongly castigated by some quarters of the international press, and was held responsible for the disappearance of the two German climbers Northdurft and Mayer (Northdurft had already soloed to the Swallows Nest and back). He was accused of various dark deeds, even of pushing the Germans off the face. Corti actually thought he had done the first Italian ascent of the face until it was pointed out that he had finished the climb tied to the back of another climber.

1958: Kurt Diemberger and Wolfgang Stefan make the thirteenth ascent. As the bodies of Nothdurft and Meyer were found later on the descent route from the Eiger—both had been killed by an avalanche—Diemberger and Stefan were finally awarded the 14th ascent of the face.
1959: Adolf Derungs and Lucas Albrecht, two Swiss masons, climb the face with very primitive equipment. Derungs wore four shirts one on top of another and Albrecht carried an old overcoat as far as the Spider. Both students, brave to the point of rashness and very tough, descend by night by the west flank. Three years later, in 1962, Derungs disappears while attempting a solo ascent of the north face.

text:
1961: 6–12 March : First winter ascent of the face by Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mannhardt (de), Walter Almberger (de) and Toni Hiebeler (de).
1961: 30 August–2 September: First Czechoslovak ascent of the face by Radovan Kuchař (cs) and Zdeno Zibrín (pl) (19th overall).[21]
1961: 31 August–2 September: First Polish ascent of the face by Stanisław Biel (pl) and Jan Mostowski (20th overall).[21]
1962: Don Whillans climbing with Chris Bonington aborted his only attempt at the North face (arriving ahead of a large rescue team) to rescue Brian Nally, a British climber whose companion, Barry Brewster, had fallen and was badly injured on the Second Icefield. Brewster's body eventually 'fell from the face' and Nally was brought down to safety.
1962: First all-Italian ascent of the face by Armando Aste, Pierlorenzo Acquistapace, Gildo Airoldi, Andrea Mellano, Romano Perego, and Franco Solina.
1962: First American ascent of the face by John Harlin, with German Konrad Kirch.
1962: First British ascent of the face, by Chris Bonington and Ian Clough.
1962: Two young climbers finished the climb just after Clough and Bonington (who overtook them); their names were withheld to avert a flood of ascents of the Eiger's north face. They were very young, their equipment was rudimentary, and the letter they left their parents galvanized police action; the police were waiting for them on their return.
1963: 2–3 August: First solo ascent of the face by Michel Darbellay (fr), in around 18 hours of climbing.
1963: 15 August: Two Spanish climbers, Ernesto Navarro (es) and Alberto Rabadá (es), die in a storm.
1963: 27–31 December: Three Swiss guides complete the first descent of the face, retrieving the bodies of Navarro and Rabadá from the "White Spider."
1964: 1–3 September: German Daisy Voog becomes the first woman to reach the summit via the face (with Werner Bittner).
1965: August: Harry Stewart, Mitchell Millar (UK) Al & Tad Katzmarek (Polish) reach the Ramp, Stewart and Katzmarek cousins retreat, Millar solo to summit.
1966: March 22: After a fixed rope breaks, American John Harlin falls to his death while attempting a new route: the direttissima, or "most direct" route. His colleague, Scotsman Dougal Haston, joins the competing team of Siegfried Hupfauer (de), Jörg Lehne (de), Günter Strobel and Roland Votteler, and they go on to complete the first direttissima (they reach the summit on 25 March, after one month's siege). The new route is named the "John Harlin Route" in Harlin's honour.
1968: 28–31 July: First ascent of the north pillar, by a Polish team: Krzysztof Cielecki, Tadeusz Łaukajtys, Ryszard Szafirski (pl), Adam Zyzak.[22][23]

text:
1970: Leo Dickinson, Eric Jones, Pete Minks and Cliff Phillips (GB) make the first complete film of the climb.
1971: First Belgian ascent of the face by Renaat Van Malderen and Vincent de Waele.
1971: Peter Siegert and Martin Biock are winched from above Death Bivouac to a helicopter, the first such successful rescue.
1973 : First All Female Ascent of the face by Wanda Rutkiewicz, Danuta Gellner-Wach and Stefania Egierszdorff. All Polish.
1974: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climb the face in 10 hours. Chris Kopcznski and John Roskelley first all US team climb the face en route home from the Pamir Mountains.
1975: Second winter and the first British winter ascent of the 1938 route by Joe Tasker and Dick Renshaw. This was the first Alpine Style ascent of the North Face in winter - completing the climb from bottom to top in one push. It was also the first time the face had been climbed in winter without recourse to fixed ropes.
1977: First alpine-style ascent of the Eiger Direct (Harlin Route) by Alex MacIntyre (UK) and Tobin Sorenson (US).[24]
1977: First Dutch ascent of the face by Ronald Naar and Bas Gresnigt.
1978: First Polish winter ascent of the face by Andrzej Czok, Walenty Fiut (pl), Janusz Skorek and Jan Wolf, the fastest winter ascent at that time.
1978: First winter solo ascent by Tsuneo Hasegawa.

text:
1981: First British solo ascent of the face by Welsh climber Eric Jones, filmed by Leo Dickinson and released as Eiger Solo.
1981: 25 August: Swiss guide Ueli Bühler (de) soloes the face in 8 hours and 30 minutes.
1982: Slovene Franček Knez (de; sl) soloes the face in 6 hours.
1982 First American winter ascent by Harry Kent and Keith Lober.
1983: 21 March–2 April (13 days on the wall): First winter solo ascent and new route on the face (the ideal direttissima) by Slovak Pavel Pochylý (sk).[25]
1983: 27 July: Austrian Thomas Bubendorfer (de) soloes the face without a rope in 4 hours and 50 minutes, almost halving Bühler's time.
1984: 21 July: Slovene Slavko (Miroslav) Svetičič. Classic route, solo climb in 8 hours.
1985: French climber Christophe Profit (de) soloes the north face in the first solo winter ascent in 10 hours.[26]
1987: 11–12 March: French climber Christophe Profit soloes the famous 'Trilogy' of north faces (the Eiger, the Matterhorn, and the Grandes Jorasses) in one outing ('enchainement') of 42 hours and in winter conditions.
1987: Second British solo ascent of the face by Phil Thornhill.
1988: Alison Hargreaves climbs the face while nearly six months' pregnant.

text:
1990: 14–15 January: Slavko Svetičič solo climbs the Harlin route in 26 hours, its first winter ascent.
1991: Jeff Lowe solos Metanoia on the north face in winter without bolts.
1992: 9 March: First female solo ascent by Catherine Destivelle (France), in 17 hours.[27]
1997: Benedetto Salaroli, aged 72, becomes the oldest man to ascend the face, climbing it in a single day with guides Ueli Buhler and Kobi Reichen.

text:
2003: 24 March: Christoph Hainz (de) breaks Bubendorfer's record by ten minutes, climbing the face in 4 hours and 40 minutes.
2007: 9 April: Christophe Profit guides the face for the tenth time.
2007: 21 February: Ueli Steck (Switzerland) breaks Christoph Hainz's record, soloing the face in 3 hours and 54 minutes.[17]
2008: 28 January: Swiss climbers Roger Schäli (de) and Simon Anthamatten set a new record for a team ascent (of the Heckmair route) climbing it in 6 hours and 50 minutes.
2008: 13 February: Ueli Steck breaks his own record, soloing the face in 2 hours, 47 minutes and 33 seconds.[28]
2008: 23 February: Swiss climbers Daniel Arnold (de) and Stephan Ruoss better the team record (Schäli and Anthamatten), climbing the Heckmair route in 6 hours, 10 minutes.[29]
2008: 31 May: Ueli Steck is presented with the inaugural Eiger Award.[30]
2008: 7 August: Dean Potter (US) free-solos Deep Blue Sea (5.12+) on the face, then BASE jumps from the top using an ultralight rig he wore during the climb.[31]

text:
2011: 20 April: Daniel Arnold (Switzerland) solos the face in 2 hours 28 minutes, using the fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser Traverse.[32] Arnold was 19 minutes faster than Ueli Steck in 2008, but Steck climbed the route entirely without aid and, unlike Arnold, completed the route in the official winter season.[32]
2014: 14 March: Mark Salamon solos the face the on classic-route - the first Hungarian climber to make any solo ascent of the North Face.
2015: 29 August: Sasha DiGiulian becomes the first woman to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the north face of the Eiger.[33]
2015: 12 Nov: New team ascent record by Ueli Steck and Nicolas Hojac in 3 hours 46 minutes.
2015: 17 Nov: Ueli Steck climbs the Heckmair Route in 2 hours 22 minutes 50.7 seconds.[34]

text: Panorama[edit]

text: Books and films[edit]

text:
The 1959 book The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer describes the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face.
The 1972 novel The Eiger Sanction is an action/thriller novel by Rodney William Whitaker (writing under the pseudonym Trevanian), based around the climbing of the Eiger. This was then made into a 1975 film starring Clint Eastwood and George Kennedy. The Eiger Sanction film crew included very experienced mountaineers (e.g., John Cleare, Dougal Haston, and Hamish MacInnes, see Summit, 52, Spring 2010) as consultants, to ensure accuracy in the climbing footage, equipment and techniques.
The 1982 book Eiger, Wall of Death by Arthur Roth is an historical account of first ascents of the north face.[35]
The 1982 book Traverse of The Gods by Bob Langley is a World War II spy thriller where a group escaping from Nazi Germany is trapped and the only possible exit route is via the Nordwand.
Eiger Dreams, a collection of essays by Jon Krakauer, begins with an account of Krakauer's own attempt to climb the north face.
The IMAX film The Alps features John Harlin III's climb up the north face in September 2005. Harlin's father, John Harlin II, set out 40 years earlier to attempt a direct route (the direttissima) up the 6,000-foot (1,800 m) face, the so-called "John Harlin route". At 1300 m, his rope broke, and he fell to his death. Composer James Swearingen created a piece named Eiger: Journey to the Summit in his memory.
The 2007 docu/drama film The Beckoning Silence featuring mountaineer Joe Simpson, recounting—with filmed reconstructions—the ill-fated 1936 expedition up the north face of the Eiger and how Heinrich Harrer's book The White Spider inspired him to take up climbing. The film followed Simpson's eponymous 2003 book. Those playing the parts of the original climbing team were Swiss mountain guides Roger Schäli (Toni Kurz), Simon Anthamatten (Andreas Hinterstoisser), Dres Abegglen (Willy Angerer) and Cyrille Berthod (Edi Rainer). The documentary won an Emmy Award the subsequent year.
The 2008 German historical fiction film Nordwand is based on the 1936 attempt to climb the Eiger north face. The film is about the two German climbers, Toni Kurz and Andreas Hinterstoisser, involved in a competition with an Austrian duo to be the first to scale the north face of Eiger.
The 2010 documentary Eiger: Wall of Death by Steve Robinson.


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text: History of iPhone

text: Connection to AT&T[edit]

text: When Apple released the iPhone on January 9, 2007,[23] it was sold only with AT&T (formerly Cingular) contracts in the United States.[14] After 18 months of negotiations, Steve Jobs reached an agreement with the wireless division of AT&T to be the iPhone's exclusive carrier. Consumers were unable to use any other carrier without unlocking their device.

text: Apple retained control of the design, manufacturing and marketing of the iPhone.[24] Since some customers were jailbreaking their iPhones to leave their network, AT&T began charging them a $175 early-termination fee for leaving before the end of their contract.[25]

text: Court cases[edit]

text: Questions arose about the legality of Apple's arrangement after the iPhone was released.[26] Two class-action lawsuits were filed against the company in October 2007: one in Federal court and the other in state court.[27] According to the suits, Apple's exclusive agreement with AT&T violated antitrust law.[28]

text: The state-court suit, filed by the law office of Damian R. Fernandez on behalf of California resident Timothy P. Smith,[28] sought an injunction barring Apple from selling iPhones with a software lock and $200 million in damages.[29] In Smith v. Apple Inc., the plaintiffs said that Apple failed to disclose to purchasers its five-year agreement with AT&T when they bought iPhones with a two-year contract and cited the Sherman Act's prohibition of monopolies.[30]

text: The second case was filed in the United States District Court for the Northern District of California. The plaintiff, Paul Holman, filed a complaint against Apple and AT&T Mobility that he could not switch carriers or change SIM cards without losing iPhone improvements to which he was entitled. Holman also cited a Sherman Act violation by the defendants.[31] On July 8, 2010, the case was affirmed for class certification.[32] On December 9 the court ordered a stay on the case, awaiting the Supreme Court's decision in AT&T v. Concepcion (disputed whether the state's basic standards of fairness were met by a clause in AT&T's contract limiting complaint resolution to arbitration).[33] On April 27, 2011, the Supreme Court ruled that AT&T met the state's fairness standards.[34]

text: Advertising[edit]

text: The first advertisement for iPhone, titled "Hello", aired during the 79th Academy Awards on February 25, 2007, on American Broadcasting Company (ABC).[35] On June 4, 2007, Apple released four advertisements announcing that iPhone would be released on June 29, 2007.

text: Domain name[edit]

text: On July 1, 2007, it was reported that Apple paid at least US$1 million to Michael Kovatch for the iPhone.com domain name, previously owned by Kovatch since 1995.[36] The URL now redirects to Apple's iPhone page.

text: United States release[edit]

text: On June 28, 2007, during an address to Apple employees, Steve Jobs announced that all full-time Apple employees and those part-time employees who had been with the company for at least one year would receive a free iPhone. Employees received their phones in July after the initial demand for iPhones subsided.[37]

text: Initially priced at US $499 and US $599 for the 4GB models and 8GB models respectively, the iPhone went on sale on June 29, 2007. Apple closed its stores at 2:00pm local time to prepare for the 6:00pm iPhone launch, while hundreds of customers lined up at stores nationwide.[38]

text: In the US and some other countries, iPhones could only be acquired with a credit card, preventing completely anonymous purchases of iPhones.[39][40][41] At the time, there was no way to opt out of the bundled AT&T data plan. At first, iPhones could not be added to an AT&T Business account, and any existing business account discounts could not be applied to an iPhone AT&T account. AT&T changed these restrictions in late January 2008.[42]

text: The Associated Press also reported in 2007 that some users were unable to activate their phones because, according to AT&T, "[a] high volume of activation requests [was] taxing the company's computer servers."[43][44] On Oct 29, 2007, the Usenet newsgroup misc.phone.mobile.iphone was created.[relevant? – discuss]

text: Early estimates by technology analysts estimated sales of between 250,000 and 700,000 iPhones in the first weekend alone, with strong sales continuing after the initial weekend.[45][46] As part of their quarterly earnings announcement, AT&T reported that 146,000 iPhones were activated in the first weekend. Though this figure does not include units that were purchased for resale on eBay or otherwise not activated until after the opening weekend, it is still less than most initial estimates.[47] It is also estimated that 95% of the units sold are the 8GB model.[48]

text: On January 11, 2011, Verizon announced during a media event that it had reached an agreement with Apple and would begin selling a CDMA iPhone 4. The Verizon iPhone went on sale on February 10, 2011.[49][50][51]

text: During Apple's official unveiling of iPhone 4S on October 4, 2011, it was announced that Sprint would begin carrying the reconfigured CDMA iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S in the US on October 14.[52][53] Cricket Wireless announced on May 31, 2012 that it would become the first prepaid carrier in the US to offer iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S, beginning June 22, 2012.[54] A week later, Virgin Mobile USA became the second American prepaid carrier to offer iPhone 4 and 4S, announcing plans to release the phones on June 29, 2012.[55] Due to T-Mobile USA's inability to provide iPhone to customers raised its subscription churn rate, put the unit in an "unsustainable position", and contributed to parent Deutsche Telekom's decision to sell it to AT&T in March 2011;[clarify] T-Mobile began offering iPhone on April 12, 2013.[56]

text: Media reports emerged in early August 2013 that announced that Apple would be launching its next iPhone model on September 10, 2013, but further details were not available. Brian Barrett, Managing Editor of the Gizmodo publication, speculated that either an upgraded version of iPhone 5 or a budget version would be released.[57]

text: Outsized bills[edit]

text: Stories of unexpected billing issues began to circulate in blogs and the technical press a little more than a month after iPhone's heavily advertised and anticipated release.[58] The 300-page iPhone bill in a box received by iJustine on Saturday, August 11, 2007[59][60] became the subject of a viral video, posted by the following Monday, which quickly became an Internet meme.[61][62] This video clip brought the voluminous bills to the attention of the mass media. Ten days later, after the video had been viewed more than 3 million times on the Internet,[63] and had received international news coverage, AT&T sent iPhone users a text message outlining changes in its billing practices.[64]

text: Price drop outcry[edit]

text: On September 5, 2007, the 4GB model was discontinued, and the 8GB model price was cut by a third, from US $599 to US $399.[65] Those who had purchased an iPhone in the 14-day period before the September 5, 2007 announcement were eligible for a US $200 "price protection" rebate from Apple or AT&T. However, it was widely reported that some who bought between the June 29, 2007 launch and the August 22, 2007 price protection kick-in date complained that this was a larger-than-normal price drop for such a relatively short period and accused Apple of unfair pricing.[66][67]

text: In response to customer complaints, on September 6, 2007, Apple CEO Steve Jobs wrote in an open letter to iPhone customers that everyone who purchased an iPhone at the higher price "and who is not receiving a rebate or other consideration", would receive a US$100 credit to be redeemed towards the purchase of any product sold in Apple's retail or online stores.[68]

text: iPhone 3G pricing model changes[edit]

text: With the July 11, 2008 release of the iPhone 3G, Apple and AT&T changed the US pricing model from the previous generation. Following the de facto model for mobile phone service in the United States, AT&T would subsidize a sizable portion of the upfront cost for the iPhone 3G, followed by charging moderately higher monthly fees over a minimum two-year contract.[69]

text: European release[edit]

text: This section's factual accuracy may be compromised due to out-of-date information. Please update this article to reflect recent events or newly available information. (March 2012)

text: On November 9, 2007, the iPhone was officially launched in Europe, in the United Kingdom and Germany.[clarify] In the UK, sales go through the UK O2 unit of Telefónica, while in Germany, it is offered through Deutsche Telekom's T-Mobile division.[clarify] As in the case of the previous launch in the US, customers lined up as much as a day in advance to obtain the much-anticipated phone.[70]

text: Apple occasionally produced a limited number of 4GB iPhones for German and UK markets, but they never reached end customers and were used as in-store demo units. Later[when?] most of the units were disposed of.[71]

text: The initial operating model of locking iPhone owners to one selected carrier has been controversial in Europe. In Germany, Vodafone, an operator competing with the operator that Apple had locked German iPhone sales to (Deutsche Telekom's T-Mobile division), brought a legal case[clarify] claiming that the arrangement was against German law. On November 20, 2007, an interim court order resulted in sales of locked iPhones in Germany being temporarily stopped. The iPhone launch in France a few weeks later through the operator Orange faced the same legal issues. Other countries that will pose[clarify] the same problems for the business model revolving around the sale of locked iPhones include Belgium, Italy, Finland, and Brazil.

text: On December 1, 2007, Tušmobil, the Slovenian mobile operator,[clarify] started selling "unlocked" iPhones without an official contract with Apple. The offer caused confusion between Apple Europe, local media, and local Apple representatives.[72]

text: On May 6, 2008, Telecom Italia announced that it had signed a deal with Apple to sell iPhones in Italy by the end of 2008.[73] It was estimated that it would probably be the second generation iPhone with 3G-UMTS capability.

text: On May 27, 2008, TeliaSonera released a press release stating that it would start selling iPhones in Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Estonia, Lithuania, and Latvia during 2008.[74]

text: On June 4, 2008, Movistar announced that it had signed a deal with Apple to sell iPhones in Spain beginning on July 11, 2008.[75]

text: On August 22, 2008, Estonian mobile operator EMT started selling iPhones.[76]

text: On August 22, 2008, Vodafone Greece released iPhones in the Greek market.[77]

text: On September 26, 2008, Omnitel released iPhones in Lithuania.[78]

text: On November 7, 2008, T-Mobile released iPhones in Croatia.[79]

text: On September 29, 2010, Elisa released the iPhone 4 in Finland.[80]

text: Southeast Asian releases[edit]

text: SingTel (in Singapore) and Globe Telecom (in the Philippines) were the first two carriers to launch the iPhone in Southeast Asia. Both carriers launched the iPhone 3G in August 2008.

text: On March 20, 2009, Telkomsel became the first telecommunications company in Indonesia to offer the iPhone 3G with customizable plans for all Telkomsel customers.[clarify][81] In the same month, Maxis of Malaysia and DiGi both launched the iPhone 3G.[where?]

text: On October 2011, StarHub launched the iPhone in Singapore. Smart Communications followed suit in December 2011 by launching the iPhone 4S in the Philippines. Smart Communications was the last telecommunications company to carry Apple's iPhone in Southeast Asia.[clarify][82]

text: Australian release[edit]

text: The iPhone 3G was released in Australia on July 11, 2008.[83]

text: New Zealand release[edit]

text: The very first iPhone 3G model released on July 11, 2008[clarify] was sold in Auckland, New Zealand to 22-year-old student Jonny Gladwell at 12:01 am NZST.[84] The iPhone 3G was only available to customers on the Vodafone network.[clarify][85] There was criticism from some New Zealand customers when Vodafone announced pricing for the iPhone 3G, as Vodafone was the only network to offer this generation of iPhone.[where?]

text: The first-generation iPhone was only available for sale in New Zealand through parallel import stores soon after it went on sale in the US. The original models available for sale in New Zealand were unlocked for use on the Vodafone network and could be used with any plan, including pre-paid plans.[86]

text: Subsequent launches of iPhone models in New Zealand have typically been a few weeks after the worldwide release.

text: On November 8, 2011, Telecom announced that they would offer the iPhone 4S on their network, along with earlier models (the iPhone 3GS and the iPhone 4).[87]

text: Canadian release[edit]

text: After months of high anticipation, the first iPhone to be released in Canada was the iPhone 3G. Rogers Wireless began offering 8 GB and 16 GB models on July 11, 2008. Facing a public backlash,[88] Rogers dropped the price of its service plan from CA$100 to CA$30 per month.[89]

text: The iPhone 3GS, with the new iOS 3.0 operating system, was released in Canada by Rogers Wireless on June 19, 2009. Users who signed up for a 3-year agreement with a data option[clarify] could choose between a 16 GB device for CA$199 and a 32 GB device for CA$299.[90]

text: Bell and Telus Mobility announced that they would release iPhone on November 4 and 5, 2009, respectively.[clarify][91]

text: Non-exclusive deals[edit]

text: On May 6, 2008, Vodafone announced that they had signed a deal with Apple to sell iPhone in Australia, the Czech Republic, Egypt, Greece, Italy, India, Portugal, New Zealand, South Africa, and Turkey.[92]

text: Subsequent announcements confirmed that Apple is moving away from exclusive one-carrier deals.[needs update?] Soon after Vodafone's announcement, TIM announced that it would also be selling iPhone in Italy, on May 12, 2008, Optus[93] confirmed that it would sell iPhone in Australia and SingTel confirmed that it would be selling iPhone in India through its Indian Joint Venture, Airtel.[clarify]

text: On June 4, 2008, SoftBank Mobile released a press release stating that it would start selling iPhone in Japan during 2008.[94]

text: Russia's second largest mobile operator, Beeline, announced on August 28, 2008 that they signed a contract with Apple to sell iPhone on the Russian market by late 2008. The deal was rumoured to be non-exclusive, according to unofficial statements made by MTS and MegaFon. MTS and MegaFon belong to the "Russian Big Three",[relevant? – discuss] and were expected to release the iPhone 3G at the same time as Beeline. As predicted, MegaFon issued a press release regarding the iPhone 3G release on September 2, 2008.[95]

text: On November 14, 2008, Vodafone Egypt and Mobinil started selling the iPhone 3G in Egypt. iPhone 3G is priced at EG£3,800 and EG£4,600 for the 8 GB and 16 GB models respectively. Customers must also sign up for one of 3 service plans[clarify] to use the phone.

text: On September 28, 2009, Orange announced that they were going to become the second operator of the iPhone in the UK, indicating that an exclusive deal that O2 had established with Apple in 2007 had ended. Orange later announced that the iPhone would be released on November 10, with pricing plans starting from £29.36 on contract and £440 for the 3GS 16GB on pay as you go.[clarify][96][97] On the following day, Vodafone UK announced that they would be selling the iPhone by early 2010, becoming the third UK network and Vodafone's 11th country to offer the iPhone.[98]

text: Verizon Wireless[edit]

text: There had been ongoing speculation in the United States that Apple might offer a CDMA-compatible iPhone for Verizon Wireless.[99] This speculation increased on October 6, 2010, when The Wall Street Journal reported that Apple would begin producing a CDMA-compatible iPhone, with such a model going on sale in early 2011.[100]

text: On January 8, 2011, the Wall Street Journal confirmed that Verizon Wireless would, on January 11, 2011, officially announce the launch of a CDMA-based iPhone for use on their network.[101] The date in which the Verizon iPhone would go on sale was unknown, though the two most recent[needs update?] iPhone releases were made available within weeks of their launch announcement. Verizon confirmed the announcement on January 11, with an on-sale date of February 10.[102]

text: On January 11, 2011, Verizon announced that they would start carrying a CDMA version of Apple's iPhone 4 during February 2011. Existing Verizon Wireless customers could pre-order iPhone on February 3. Pricing for the iPhone 4 was $199 for 16GB and $299 for 32GB.[103] The Verizon iPhone 5 released on Friday, September 19, in the United States; it was the first GSM unlocked iPhone,[104] which worked on AT&T and other GSM networks.[clarify]

text: World timeline[edit]

text: The international release of iPhone has been staggered over several months. Today, the iPhone is available in most countries.[105]

text:
Date
Country
Carrier(s) (released date)

June 2007
 United States (1)
AT&T (2007), Verizon (February 2011), Sprint (October 2011), C Spire Wireless (Late 2011), Cricket (June 2012), Virgin Mobile (June 2012), T-Mobile (April 2013), Boost Mobile (November 2013), U.S. Cellular (November 2013)

November
2007
 United Kingdom†  Germany  France‡ (4)
O2, 3, T-Mobile, Orange, Vodafone, EE, Tesco Mobile§, Virgin Mobile (November 2013)

March
2008
 Austria†  Ireland (6)
T-Mobile, O2, Orange

July
2008
 Australia†  Austria†  Belgium‡  Canada†  Denmark  Finland  Hong Kong†‡  Italy†‡  Japan  Mexico  Netherlands  New Zealand  Norway†‡  Portugal†  Spain  Sweden   Switzerland† (23)
3, movistar, SingTel Optus, Orange (Mobistar, One, Optimus), Rogers Communications (Fido Solutions,[106] Rogers Wireless), SoftBank, Swisscom, América Móvil (Telcel), TIM, TeliaSonera (NetCom), Telstra, T-Mobile, Vodafone

August
2008
 Argentina†  Chile†  Colombia†  Czech Republic†‡  Ecuador†  El Salvador†  Estonia  Greece†‡  Guatemala†  Honduras  Hungary  India†  Liechtenstein†  Macau  Paraguay  Peru†  Philippines  Poland†  Romania  Singapore  Slovakia†  Uruguay† (45)
3, América Móvil (Claro, Comcel, Porta), Era, movistar, O2, Orange, SingTel Bharti Airtel, Aircel, Globe, Smart - December 2011, SingTel, Swisscom, TeliaSonera (EMT), T-Mobile, Vodafone, Telenor

September
2008
 Brazil†‡  Latvia  Lithuania  South Africa  Turkey† (50)
TIM, América Móvil (Claro), TeliaSonera (LMT, Omnitel), Turkcell, Vivo, Vodafone (Vodacom), Oi

October
2008
 Luxembourg†  Russia‡ (52)
Beeline, MegaFon, MTS

November
2008
 Croatia  Egypt† (54)
T-Mobile, Vodafone, Mobinil

Later
2008
 Botswana  Cameroon  Central African Republic  Dominican Republic†  Guinea  Ivory Coast  Jamaica  Jordan  Kenya  Madagascar  Mali  Malta  Mauritius  Republic of Moldova  Nicaragua†  Niger  Panama  Réunion  Taiwan†  Qatar  Senegal  United States Virgin Islands  Venezuela (79)
América Móvil (Claro, MiPhone), Chunghwa Telecom, movistar, Orange, Vodafone

January
2009
 Thailand (80)
True Move

February
2009
 Saudi Arabia  United Arab Emirates (82)
Mobily, Etisalat, du

March
2009
 Bulgaria  Republic of Macedonia  Indonesia†  Malaysia (86)
GLOBUL, T-Mobile, Telkomsel, Maxis

October
2009
 People's Republic of China†[107] (87)
China Unicom

November
2009
 South Korea[108] (88)
KT

December
2009
 Guam[109]  Qatar  Uganda  Israel(92)
GTA Teleguam, Vodafone, Orange, Pelephone, Cellcom

March
2010
 Viet Nam[110]  Armenia (94)[111]
Viettel Mobile, MobiFone, VinaPhone, Orange

September
2010
 Tunisia[112] (95)
Orange

June
2011
 Slovenia[113]  Trinidad & Tobago[114] (97)
Simobil (now A1), Telekom Slovenije, bmobile

December
2013
 Sri Lanka[115]
Dialog Axiata

May
2014
 Kosovo[116] (98)
IPKO

October
2014
 Serbia
MTS, Telenor Serbia, Vip Mobile

text: † iPhone offered by multiple carriers under contract from Apple (country not carrier-exclusive)

text: ‡ iPhone offered without contract and without carrier lock

text: § MVNO with O2

text: Activation and SIM lock bypassing[edit]

text: This section may require copy editing. (June 2017) (Learn how and when to remove this template message)

text: Each iPhone normally prevents access to its media player and web features unless it has been activated as a phone through AT&T or O2. On July 3, 2007, Jon Lech Johansen reported on his blog that he had successfully bypassed this requirement and unlocked iPhone's other features with jailbreaking. He published the software and offsets for others to use.[117]

text: On August 14, 2007, Gizmodo reported verification of a method to bypass iPhone's SIM lock, allowing the phone to work freely with carriers other than AT&T. This method requires usage of a Turbo SIM card, costing approximately US$80; the method essentially tricks iPhone into believing that it is operating on the AT&T network, even when it is connected natively (not in roaming mode) to another carrier.[118] Australian Personal Computer later published a ten-step guide to unlocking iPhone, using the Turbo SIM method.[119]

text: In mid-August, UniquePhones announced an unlocking service for iPhone, only to retract the service the following week after receiving a phone call from a lawyer representing AT&T.

text: On August 24, 2007, George Hotz, a 17-year-old hacker from Glen Rock, New Jersey, broke the lock that ties Apple's iPhone to AT&T's wireless network. He confirmed that he unlocked the phone and was using it on T-Mobile's network. The hack opened up a realm of possibilities for overseas customers because iPhone was only sold in the US at the time. By unlocking it, Hotz opened up the phone to all kinds of phone networks across the world. Hotz posted the hack on his blog. The process is complicated and requires both disassembling iPhone and executing software commands on a personal computer. Hotz, along with four others across the world, reportedly spent about 500 hours unlocking the phone.[120][121]

text: Also on August 24, 2007, Engadget reported, by way of photos and a video clip, that they were called by the "iPhoneSimFree" team, who offered to show Engadget a demonstration of unlocking iPhone using a software-only method.[122] Unlike Hotz's hardware hack, the code in this hack was not made available to the general public. Sales of the unlock started on September 10. These sales occurred through several resellers who were able to order "keys" from iPhoneSimFree, then pass the "keys" to customers, allowing the customers to use the software.

text: On September 11, after one day of sales, the iPhone Dev Team announced that they had created a working "software unlock", and released it to the public for free.[123] Utilizing the existing unlock[clarify] requires some technical knowledge, although a simpler, GUI-based version was under construction. Two free, GUI-based unlocking programs that have been made available are AnySim and iUnlock Reloaded.

text: On September 24, 2007 Apple issued a warning that future updates could render unlocked iPhones unusable.[124] On September 27, 2007, owners of unlocked iPhones who took advantage of the version 1.1.1 update through iTunes reported that the update rendered the device virtually inoperable.[125] There were also reports that the update even affected some iPhones that were not unlocked,[126] and Engadget found that the firmware update had "bricked" unhacked iPhones as well. The firmware update relocks iPhones, but on October 11 iPhoneSIMFree announced that they had hacked the 1.1.1 iPhone update, not only unlocking them but also unbricking those iPhones which were bricked by the update.[127]

text: On October 16, 2007, the iPhone Dev Team released AnySIM 1.1, the free utility that unlocks iPhones. The updated version works on firmware version 1.1.1, but doesn't fix baseband problems caused by updating an unlocked 1.0.2 phone up to 1.1.1.[128]

text: On October 23, 2007, the iPhone Elite Dev-Team released Revirginizing Tool to rebuild the lock table in the seczone area to repair the damage done by the original anySIM 1.0x unlockers so unlocked 1.0.2 iPhones can upgrade to 1.1.1 without bricking iPhone. The tool is unbricking the previously bricked iPhones.[129]

text: On November 21, 2007, T-Mobile announced that due to litigation commenced against them by their competitor Vodafone, which resulted in a preliminary injunction preventing T-Mobile from locking the SIM card to T-Mobile in Germany, it will sell the phone "unlocked" and will offer iPhone without a T-Mobile contract for €999 (US$1,478) at its shops to customers in Germany until the court renders a decision.[130]

text: By the end of November, Apple released another version of iPhone firmware, 1.1.2. This version does not have many new features but breaks unlocks.[citation needed]

text: During Macworld '08, on January 15, Apple released the fifth version of iPhone firmware, 1.1.3; this version repairs loopholes used by "iPhone Hackers." The firmware, however, had been compromised prior to release and new security measures were quickly bypassed.[citation needed]

text: On February 8, 2008, Geohot released the first full software unlock for the 1.1.2 & 1.1.3 OTB iPhones.

text: For recent information see IPhone SIM unlocking.